"I have five acres on a steep slope. I use the H120 bucket for snow pushing and removal and a 60D mower with mulching kit. It only has 90 hours but zero issues with it. The dealer sucked, though. They were confused about what to do at the 50 hour service. I will do everything from now on."

"Good Evening my Tractor Friends! I have a question following this explanation: All my life, my family, along with myself, have been a Ford Tractor Family. In 2015, my wife and I were in the market for a small compact utility tractor, and John Deere was among the top of my list. So we purchased new a 1025R with loader and backhoe attachment. The tractor would make small jobs around the house/farm an easy task since it would go where my big tractors wouldn't. The versatility would be perfect. When it was new we noticed the backhoe attachment bracket under the tractor scrubbed the left tire. After 4 visits to my local dealer, it was band-aided by tire pressure and a bracket adjustment. These temporarily fixed it, but within a a short times you would feel and hear the tire scrub again. I know now the warranty has since run out and the tractor only has 130 hours on it and hasn't been used much at all, because I have been afraid of the tire tearing up. I finally had enough and carried it back on January 26th to have them check it. The service guy called me and said he saw in the corporate paper reviews that the company installed the wrong mounting bracket to the tractor and that the specs for the current bracket were wrong. He did let me see if John Deere would cover the cost of the replacement for the right bracket. He called on Tuesday and said corporate, their dealership, and me would split the cost of the bracket leaving me to pay $200 for a wrong part they put on their tractor. He said he didn't see how the part failed, and I put it to him as simple as I could, the company put the wrong spec part causing the tire to scrub. I said the tractor only has 130 hours. When I brought it to him for service it had 99 hours back in June, and they knew then my issue and never followed through. Luckily, I saved all my emails to the salesman, who is now the store manager. He never returned a single email but one saying they would take care of it. This was in 2015 when I bought. They have never stood behind my tractor, which is their product. The tractor is great, but it's no good when the tire scrubs the frame. So, needless to say, John Deere put on a wrong part and won't make it right, and I have a tractor that still belongs to them until I get it paid for in a year or so. Has anyone ever had this issue on this type of tractor and this kind of trouble in a John Deere? It's got me not ever wanting to buy a Deere ever again. Thanks Tim"

"I've had my 1025R for three years. For me, because of trees, shrubs, and the shape of my lawn, I should not have bought the mower deck. The turning radius of the tractor is much too big to mow anything but a huge empty lot. The power take-off of the 'drive over' quick-attach mower deck does not work without crawling underneath to clean off and grease the power-take off spline. The front loader cannot be mounted without removing the snowblower power take-off attachment on the front of the tractor. The mounting plates on the front of the tractor must be unbolted and changed out to go from mower to snowblower back to mower. I don't understand why John Deere engineering did not make a plate that would fit both the snowblower and mower, and allow the front loader to be used by simply disconnecting the snowblower leaving the power take-off drive plate in place. Seriously. However, the front loader is very easy to remove and install. Overall, it is a super nice little tractor, but John Deere engineering gets a C- from me because attachments are a pain to swap out."

"I traded my John Deere 2003 2210 tractor for the 1025 R. The new tractor has an easy-connect front end loader and drive-over 60-inch mower. The loader is easy to attach and detach. I used it recently to move and spread 15 tons of gravel. It worked very well. The mower cuts smoothly. With the wider 60-inch mower, I have to be more careful about scalping uneven places in the lawn on a low height setting and watching the left side of the mower near fixed objects as the mower body is wider than the tractor. The drive over feature is easy to disengage. Attaching the mower is a bit trickier. As the instructions say, the mower must be on a level surface; otherwise, the power take-off drive shaft does not engage the mower drive box. I appreciate the extra horsepower of the 1025 R. It has run very smoothly. It is much easier to mow without the front end loader attached and to use the front end loader without having the mower attached. The 1025 R also has improved engine cooling and is not as prone to overheating from front dust and trash accumulation as the 2210 was."

"I've had problems with the floppy bucket and trouble with the 3-point. It is hard to start in the winter and has terrible fuel usage. John Deere would not resolve the issues so I traded it on for a B2650 Kubota. I should have bought that to start with, what a sweet tractor. I will never buy anything green again!"

"I bought this tractor with the quick auto connect brand new. The dealer had to take it back because the auto connect would not connect. The dealer had it for over a month correcting the problem. I mowed with it for a while and another snag came up. The dealer had to come back out to get the tractor again. I've had a hard time getting the belly mower to connect up after disconnecting it for other uses. Then, as if that's not enough, the front kept popping out of the bracket causing the mowing to be uneven. My latest problem is that the tractor won't even start at all. The battery has been in the area of an 85% charge, but it's not even turning over at all. This thing is horrible. Talk about buyer's remorse! I've got over $16,000 tied up in this thing and it's junk. I'll never buy another John Deere again. I'll stick with Husqvarna or something more dependable like Murray from Walmart. Stay away from this mower!"

"The tilt steering wore out at 250 hours. I do a lot of turning when mowing my place and the tilt became all loose and steering developed about 2 inches of free play. It has poor design of the joint in shaft which is a ball and socket setup instead of a universal joint, so it had free play from day one. The E model without tilt has much less play. By the parts pictures, the newer models have a different setup for the tilt, as far as I can tell. Anyone else have the same problem?"

"I just did the 200-hour service. The dealer did a transmission change along with correcting other problems at 50 hours. The engine is easy to drain oil and change the filter. The transmission is another story. The oil filter is above the front power take-off shaft so it has to be removed to change the filter. Cleaning the oil pickup screen on the left side of the transmission is a royal pain. The clamps are hard to get at because of all of the framework in the way, and you have to pry the hose up and down to remove and replace it. I had a 2006 Kubota BX 24 TLB and it was much easier to service. There was no power take-off shaft in the way of the transmission filter and nothing in the way of the pickup screen in the bottom of the transmission. It just had one bolt to take out, and no hose to fool with. The cost is roughly $200. That is roughly $1 an hour to run it besides fuel. I a wishing I had stuck with Kubota. I think the John Deere is a rebodied Yanmar. "

"I dropped it off Friday night because the mid power take-off would not engage and the seat was canted to the right. Seven days later, and after dismantling a majority of the machine to fix a factory problem, there is the wrong size snap ring in the power take-off. The tractor returned and I used it for 5 hours. The 3-point will not stay in the up position. It's been returned again with 10 hours on the machine. Four more machines came in with the same problem."

"It clears snow great with the H120 loader. I have a 60-inch drive over deck that does good. It could be a little cleaner cut. My only problem has been debris in the grill and screen in front of the radiator that builds up while mowing tall grass and causes the engine to heat. I have to stop and clean out the screen about every 20 minutes mowing my field. "